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Mughal Jewellery: An Artistic Legacy of India’s Glorious Past

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Mughal Jewellery: An Artistic Legacy of India’s Glorious Past

The Rise of Mughal Jewellery: A Historical Perspective

With the advent of the Mughal dynasties in India in the 16th Century, came valuable and artistic contributions towards art, culture, architecture, cuisine and of course the elaborately designed and exquisitely crafted Mughal jewellery. While the Mughal royal patrons encouraged collaboration in the areas of art and culture, the designs depicted on their styled jewellery was a departure from the then existing designs incorporating Hindu gods and goddesses. Instead, the fascinating and unmatched production of Mughal jewellery was created with subjects like flowers, birds, creepers and foliage, and were extravagant in finish. Colour and motifs have been the highlight of this style of jewellery. Gradually, the use of gemstones and Navaratnas (nine different precious stones), were incorporated in the Mughal jewellery designs. European fashion of 17th century especially jewellery of the Renaissance era, had influenced Mughal jewellery in India as well.

For Mughal royalty, wearing such elaborate and richly fashioned jewellery was to establish status and display their wealth. Items included jewelled turbans, toe-rings and necklaces and more.
Mughal rule covered nearly the entire sub-continent and their influence extended beyond North India to the areas that are now Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. Mughal jewellery designs were also prevalent in these regions.
Overall use of precious stones and intricate carvings are the two significant aspects of Mughal jewellery. Precious, high quality gemstones used include diamond, emerald, ruby, kundan, polki, jade, pearls, tourmaline, topaz, and many other qualities of beads.
Historically during the rule of Emperor Akbar, Mughal jewellery designs had a combination of Iranian and Hindu art because of the emperor’s cultural roots in Iran. Indian gold work and floral designs of the Middle East are incorporated in Mughal jewellery of that period.
Again, under Jahangir’s changes notably was seen in the exclusion of the feather plume worn on the turban by Akbar, which was replaced by a large pearl drop.
Mughal jewellery was fabricated on heavy gold base and occasionally silver plated with gold and other metallic bases. Design with a combination of the crescent shape and stem was very prominent. Earrings were made in that crescent shape covering almost the entire ear with a small stem at the top of it. The bottom edge would have a suspended fish motif, edged with a bunch of pearls. Elaborate and intricate were the Mughal styling.
Women wore a variety of ornaments on their head including Binduli, Kotbiladar, Sekra, Siphul, Tikka and Jhumar. On their arms they wore wide amulets, bracelets, or pearls around their wrists, several rings, nearly fifteen strings of pearl around their necks. Metal bans or those made of pearls were worn around the ankles. Ornaments for the middle parting on the head with star, sun, moon and flower motifs were in vogue.
The Mughal emperors and dignitaries wore ear studs or small round earrings made of pearls or gemstones. The empresses wore exquisite long earrings, popularly known as chandelier earrings, in today’s age. What sets Mughal bangles apart from other Indian bangles? One can clearly see that it is their unique shape and prominent stone-setting. Bracelets were created in a circular shape with two ends (clasps) that touch each other. These wrist ornaments are mostly produced with enamelled gold with delicate floral designs and gemstones.

Elements of Mughal Jewellery Design: Ornate and Intricate

Heavy stonework and Kundan jewellery flourished during Mughal period. Precious gemstones were skilfully cut and given a shape to fit into a pure gold base. Kundan jewellery is very much in vogue even in today’s age. Elaborate enamel work or Minakari jewellery with floral motifs were popular designs that were made with the process of enamelling. Jadau or engraved jewellery was another very popular style seen during the Mughal period.

Teams of skilled craftsmen were hired to carry out this intricate work. The basic design was made by Chiterias, engraving and drilling was done by Ghaarias, enamelling or Minakari was done by an enameller, and the Kundan and gold work were executed by the goldsmith.
Minakari Work on jewellery has a unique Charm. These are traditional Indian jewellery in which brightly coloured metal is overlaid with designs of traditional Indian motifs like flowers, birds, leaves etc. The enamelling is done using ancient techniques and all these styles of craftsmanship are clearly inherited by artisans and in demand till date.
Heavy, intricate designs of the Mughal period are incorporated mainly in bridal jewellery in our times and most jewellers, big brands and otherwise incorporate the Mughal aesthetic with modern day elements.
Apart from students of history, there may be aspiring jewellery designers who may wish to do a course to learn and pick up the skill. It would be best done by being an understudy to artisans who make a living out of fabricating and creating these masterpieces. For these artisans, its their core competency built into their DNA and handed down from one generation to the next. Design schools would do well to tie up with local artisans and conduct workshops for their students.
Women were known to have eight complete jewellery sets.

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Jd Institute

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Mughal Jewellery: An Artistic Legacy of India’s Glorious Past

The Rise of Mughal Jewellery: A Historical Perspective

With the advent of the Mughal dynasties in India in the 16th Century, came valuable and artistic contributions towards art, culture, architecture, cuisine and of course the elaborately designed and exquisitely crafted Mughal jewellery. While the Mughal royal patrons encouraged collaboration in the areas of art and culture, the designs depicted on their styled jewellery was a departure from the then existing designs incorporating Hindu gods and goddesses. Instead, the fascinating and unmatched production of Mughal jewellery was created with subjects like flowers, birds, creepers and foliage, and were extravagant in finish. Colour and motifs have been the highlight of this style of jewellery. Gradually, the use of gemstones and Navaratnas (nine different precious stones), were incorporated in the Mughal jewellery designs. European fashion of 17th century especially jewellery of the Renaissance era, had influenced Mughal jewellery in India as well.

For Mughal royalty, wearing such elaborate and richly fashioned jewellery was to establish status and display their wealth. Items included jewelled turbans, toe-rings and necklaces and more.
Mughal rule covered nearly the entire sub-continent and their influence extended beyond North India to the areas that are now Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. Mughal jewellery designs were also prevalent in these regions.
Overall use of precious stones and intricate carvings are the two significant aspects of Mughal jewellery. Precious, high quality gemstones used include diamond, emerald, ruby, kundan, polki, jade, pearls, tourmaline, topaz, and many other qualities of beads.
Historically during the rule of Emperor Akbar, Mughal jewellery designs had a combination of Iranian and Hindu art because of the emperor’s cultural roots in Iran. Indian gold work and floral designs of the Middle East are incorporated in Mughal jewellery of that period.
Again, under Jahangir’s changes notably was seen in the exclusion of the feather plume worn on the turban by Akbar, which was replaced by a large pearl drop.
Mughal jewellery was fabricated on heavy gold base and occasionally silver plated with gold and other metallic bases. Design with a combination of the crescent shape and stem was very prominent. Earrings were made in that crescent shape covering almost the entire ear with a small stem at the top of it. The bottom edge would have a suspended fish motif, edged with a bunch of pearls. Elaborate and intricate were the Mughal styling.
Women wore a variety of ornaments on their head including Binduli, Kotbiladar, Sekra, Siphul, Tikka and Jhumar. On their arms they wore wide amulets, bracelets, or pearls around their wrists, several rings, nearly fifteen strings of pearl around their necks. Metal bans or those made of pearls were worn around the ankles. Ornaments for the middle parting on the head with star, sun, moon and flower motifs were in vogue.
The Mughal emperors and dignitaries wore ear studs or small round earrings made of pearls or gemstones. The empresses wore exquisite long earrings, popularly known as chandelier earrings, in today’s age. What sets Mughal bangles apart from other Indian bangles? One can clearly see that it is their unique shape and prominent stone-setting. Bracelets were created in a circular shape with two ends (clasps) that touch each other. These wrist ornaments are mostly produced with enamelled gold with delicate floral designs and gemstones.

Elements of Mughal Jewellery Design: Ornate and Intricate

Heavy stonework and Kundan jewellery flourished during Mughal period. Precious gemstones were skilfully cut and given a shape to fit into a pure gold base. Kundan jewellery is very much in vogue even in today’s age. Elaborate enamel work or Minakari jewellery with floral motifs were popular designs that were made with the process of enamelling. Jadau or engraved jewellery was another very popular style seen during the Mughal period.

Teams of skilled craftsmen were hired to carry out this intricate work. The basic design was made by Chiterias, engraving and drilling was done by Ghaarias, enamelling or Minakari was done by an enameller, and the Kundan and gold work were executed by the goldsmith.
Minakari Work on jewellery has a unique Charm. These are traditional Indian jewellery in which brightly coloured metal is overlaid with designs of traditional Indian motifs like flowers, birds, leaves etc. The enamelling is done using ancient techniques and all these styles of craftsmanship are clearly inherited by artisans and in demand till date.
Heavy, intricate designs of the Mughal period are incorporated mainly in bridal jewellery in our times and most jewellers, big brands and otherwise incorporate the Mughal aesthetic with modern day elements.
Apart from students of history, there may be aspiring jewellery designers who may wish to do a course to learn and pick up the skill. It would be best done by being an understudy to artisans who make a living out of fabricating and creating these masterpieces. For these artisans, its their core competency built into their DNA and handed down from one generation to the next. Design schools would do well to tie up with local artisans and conduct workshops for their students.
Women were known to have eight complete jewellery sets.

By

Picture of Jd Institute

Jd Institute

Welcome to your go-to destination for fresh perspectives. Dive deep into our rich content pool curated meticulously to enlighten, entertain, and engage readers across the globe.
Facebook Instagram Youtube

Featured Posts

Explore Categories

Join Us and Let’s Explore Together

Subscribe to our newsletter and be the first to access exclusive content and expert insights.
Subscribe

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